Any notion that journeys by bus can be pleasurable will perhaps be derided by many. Indeed, commuting across Leeds by bus as a student 45 years ago, or more recently to get to work in the Hull suburbs, I can well accept that many bus journeys around Yorkshire are not exactly uplifting. We are fortunate in Yorkshire, however, to have many of the most scenic bus routes in the country, and ones that reach lovely destinations.
Yorkshire bus rides
Here are six of the finest. As always these are a personal selection and there are many other splendid ones well worth the very reasonable maximum £3 single fare, not to mention that for those of us of a certain age they are usually without cost – who said there are never any free rides?
Here are my selections:
- Skipton to Malham
- Scarborough to Whitby
- Keld to Richmond
- Whitby to Pickering
- Ilkley to Buckden
- York to Helmsley
(Note that each journey is just as good both ways).
Skipton to Malham – a cracking journey
Let’s start with a cracking journey which takes us between the bustling Dales town of Skipton and the spectacular limestone landscapes of Malham. The service (210/211, North Yorkshire Council) is limited to one return journey a day, with a better timetable on summer weekends. The entire 40 minutes of travel is a joy, especially beyond Gargrave with the emerald-green landscape and stone villages becoming increasingly enticing on the approach to Malham.
Car parking is rarely easy in this popular village, so you can feel smug that you came by bus. With three hours before weekday return buses you should have time for at least the riverside stroll to beautiful Janet’s Foss and on into the awesome chasm of Gordale Scar. On summer weekends you get six hours to explore further, with time to take in both cove and tarn.
With two wonderful pubs – and no drink driving worries – Malham by bus is a grand Yorkshire day out.
Scarborough to Whitby – a roller coaster coastal classic ride
The X93/94 (Arriva North East) is a very popular route with locals and visitors. It usually runs hourly and takes around 50 minutes.
Once out of Scarborough, the route rises steadily as it traverses open moorland. It diverts down a very steep hill, with stunning views, into Fylingthorpe and Robin Hood’s Bay. The bus is a great way to visit the atmospheric old fishing village, again, without the parking issues. The route now rises steeply up to the main road at Stainsacre.
Then it’s a short ride to the many delights of Whitby. The view of the estuary from the top deck of the bus as it crosses the modem bridge is breathtaking.
Keld to Richmond – beautiful dale, home of the Swale
This journey (30, Little White Bus) follows the marvellous River Swale from its dramatic upper reaches at Keld through 20 miles of grandeur to the picture-perfect historic market town of Richmond. Keld is a paradise for lovers of waterfalls: in my younger days I was known to take a dip at Wain Wath Force. Muker is a classic Dales village, and Gunnerside the gateway to a fascinating gill – these are respectively the third and fourth stops on the route.
I’ve said before that I think Richmond is the finest town in England. It’s a splendid place to end, or start, any journey. The quote above is from a lovely old local song.
Whitby to Pickering – the North York Moors at their most scenic
Whitby is a hub for great bus journeys. Up Eskdale, along the dramatic coast to Saltburn or, best of all, this classic ride to Pickering through the North York Moors at their most scenic.
The comfortable buses (840/843, Coastliner) make a thrilling diversion to the deservedly popular moorland village of Goathland, land of waterfalls, steam trains, the Heartbeat TV series and … possibly even more famously, home of ‘Hogsmeade Station’ from the Harry Potter films.
Then it’s on south to Pickering with dramatic views of the Hole of Horcum. Pickering is full of treats: an outstanding castle, great independent shops and those steam trains!
Ilkley to Buckden – another Dales cracker
This beautiful ride (874, DalesBus) up Wharfedale, especially if you travel beyond Grassington, is another Dales corker.
Ilkley is a lovely old spa town, so elegant. In a few miles you reach the sylvan delights of Bolton Abbey – and why not arrive by bus when you discover how much it costs to park there? Some of the buses terminate at Grassington, a great place to spend a few hours.
To the north, the route gets ever more attractive with the delights of Kilnsey Crag and Kettlewell (made famous for its annual scarecrow festival). Buckden is a marvellous spot for walkers, cupped in the deep green embrace of the Upper Wharfe. The short walk up Buckden Gill is a paradise of cascades: enjoy.
York to Helmsley – a remarkable succession of glorious buildings
Our final journey links our great historic city with one of our best country towns. It also delivers a remarkable succession of glorious buildings, such as Byland Abbey, Shandy Hall and Helmsley Castle. I used the route recently to walk the disused railway line between Husthwaite and Coxwold, both gorgeous villages in stunning countryside.
The 31X bus (Coastliner/East Yorkshire) will drop you at the outstanding Cistercian ruins of Byland Abbey which, incredibly, are free to visit. Onwards, past the impressive school complex at Ampleforth, you soon arrive in the heart of Helmsley with its many attractions such as the walled garden, castle and fine shops, pubs and cafes.
South and West Yorkshire too?
So, six of the best journeys by bus that do little more than scratch the surface of our huge bus network. Indeed, apologies are due to West and South Yorkshire for not including any of their services. I can certainly recommend Dewsbury to Bradford, Halifax to Todmorden (591/592, FirstGroup), Keighley to Hebden Bridge (B3 Brontë bus, TransDev) and Sheffield to Penistone (29, South Pennine Community Transport).
A final plug for another invigorating form of bus travel: the open top bus. Journeying in the open air along Scarborough seafront, or around the lanes of Haworth is a reet Yorkshire treat!
All bus routes, operators, prices and timings were correct at time of publication. For the most up to date and accurate information, please check bustimes.org or individual operator websites.
