When most people think of Yorkshire, they probably picture our wonderful landscapes: moors, wolds, coasts and dales. Of course, we also have a fabulous and varied built heritage. Here, I focus on six of our very best towns to visit. I’ve ranged across the whole of our ancient county, but these are just my choices; your favourites are at least as valid. All our towns are part of the rich tapestry that makes Yorkshire so special.
My six of the best are: Richmond, Whitby, Halifax, Ilkley, Rotherham and Beverley.
Richmond: the original and the best
There are 105 Richmonds in the world; ours in Swaledale is the original and best, founded by the Normans almost a millennium ago in 1068. Riche-mont is French for ‘strong hill’, which perfectly describes the site of the town.
I’ve been a regular visitor for 50 years: the town drips with history and visual thrills, and it’s never boring. The sloping cobbled Market Place is at the centre of town life with a plethora of pubs, cafes and independent shops to explore. Most visitors are drawn to the impressive castle, whose commanding keep offers glorious views for those who climb to the top.
Other attractions include the remarkable Georgian theatre, Greyfriars tower and the lovely waterfalls below the castle walls. One thing Richmond does sadly lack is a railway: its branch to the mainline at Darlington was a victim of the 1960s Beeching cuts. The former station, however, is now a vibrant cafe, gallery and cinema. Richmond is very special – few towns can equal its beauty and its history.
Whitby: the Goths’ Mecca
Whitby was part of the inspiration behind Bram Stoker’s Dracula, in which it is rightly described as a ‘lovely place… the houses of the old town are all red-roofed and seem piled up one over the other.’ No wonder Dracula chose to land here – as a large black dog!
Whitby is incredibly popular, almost the perfect town for a day trip to the coast. It has fine beaches, wonderful buildings like the abbey and parish church, as well as a huge range of fabulous pubs, cafes and takeaways. It’s a Mecca for Goths, and for lovers of fish and chips.
For me, it’s the panoramic views that make Whitby so special, notably from the top of the famous steps, or from the Larpool Viaduct, which now carries the Cinder Track leisure route to and from Scarborough. A day in Whitby never disappoints; a stay in Whitby is even better. Two lesser-known gems to visit: the museum and gallery in Pannet Park, and The Black Horse, the beautiful heritage pub on Sandgate.
Halifax: the finest Victorian town centre in England
Halifax might come as a surprise selection, especially to those who have never visited. Its particular appeal lies in a splendid set of Georgian, Victorian and Edwardian stone buildings which gleam in the sunshine. Its indoor market, town hall and Victoria Theatre are all outstanding, whilst the remarkable Piece Hall is a unique national treasure.
Outside the immediate centre, I’d recommend visiting the parish church, Dean Clough Mills, Shibden Hall, with its Gentleman Jack connections, and the sumptuous Art Deco Three Pigeons pub. Do visit Halifax, a town of many surprises!
Ilkley: a handsome spa town and gateway to the Dales
Some might prefer, as the premier Yorkshire spa town, Harrogate, or even Ripon (although it is actually one of our eight cities and thus ineligible here), but for me it’s Ilkley that takes the palm. Not only is it such a handsome spa town and gateway to the Dales, but it also lies under the beautiful and iconic moor where one should always wander without a hat!
The town centre is small, but nothing jars. Mellow and elegant stone buildings fill every space, notably the Winter Gardens, parish church, splendid museum and picture-perfect railway station. Special favourites are the Grove Book Shop and nearby Betty’s Tearoom.
A stroll along the river, first crossing the beautiful medieval bridge and then heading east past the lido, is highly recommended. The views from the Cow and Calf Rocks are especially grand; there is a free car park and a cafe just beneath them. At Ilkley one returns to a more elegant age – it’s most endearing.
Rotherham: a town fighting back
If Halifax was a surprise selection, maybe unheralded Rotherham is a positive shock inclusion. It is a mixed bag: much of it feels neglected, but commendably it’s a town fighting back, determined to make more of its fine sandstone architecture and to enhance the town with excellent modern buildings, such as the strikingly modern railway station.
The Minster dominates the town, as it has for centuries. It has a rich interior with notably welcoming custodians. Nearby is the stunning medieval bridge over the Don, with a rare bridge chapel, one of only four such survivors in England. There is a fabulous public park near the centre and a quite stunning heritage pub, The Cutler’s Arms on Westgate.
Rotherham has superb public transport links by bus and train, and has recently become part of the Sheffield tram network. It’s also the only one of my six to have a football league club, who now play a short walk from the centre at the New York Stadium.
Beverley: saving the best till last
Cards on the table, I have lived in the centre of Beverley since 1990, I’m hopelessly biased towards it and besotted by its many charms, so I’m saving the best till last.
Of course, our main visitor lure is the beautiful Minster, but that is but the brightest star in our galaxy. At the other end of the town centre lies St Mary’s, another church of national importance. We have two market places, many Georgian terraces and dozens of fine pubs, Nellie’s being the most appealing.
Unusually, the town has kept all four of its ancient common lands where everyone is still free to roam at will: Westwood and the Hurn, with its famous racecourse, are the finest. It’s amazing that such a fine town is still relatively unknown, so do visit – you won’t be disappointed.
Finally, due praise should be lavished on the late Alec Clifton-Taylor, the peerless expert on the architecture of English towns. Forty years ago he wrote a series of books and hosted BBC TV programmes on the very best in England: Richmond, Whitby and, of course, Beverley are rightly in his list of 18 towns.
