A quote, often mis-attributed to TS Eliot that:“The journey, not the arrival, matters” nevertheless contains a truism. It’s not necessarily all about the destination, but the adventure of getting there. For many of us, rail remains the best way to experience the joy of travel. Relatively speedy, it is usually far more relaxed than going by car and considerably less hassle than by air. It also allows an appreciation of the landscape, both urban and rural. I realise that for those who need to use the train to commute, or for personal reasons, pleasure isn’t uppermost in your mind. This piece largely relates to leisure journeys.
Yorkshire railway journeys
Of course, like all regions, Yorkshire lost a good many of its rail routes during the infamous Beeching cuts of the 1960s: Scarborough to Whitby, and Northallerton to Harrogate being but two sad losses. Much remains, however, for those fortunate enough to travel by train for pleasure. Some old routes have been restored as heritage lines – Yorkshire has more than any other UK region– and I include two here. We are also blessed with many scenic routes that are part of the national network.
After much thought and highly pleasurable ‘on-board research’ here are my six rail journeys around Yorkshire. As usual, please don’t take offence if your favourites don’t feature, these are six of the best, not necessarily the best. Indeed, I have travelled every mile of Yorkshire’s large rail network and enjoyed every bit of it.
My six of the best Yorkshire railway journeys are (heritage lines are marked with *):
- Leeds to Dent
- Pickering to Whitby*
- Sheffield to Huddersfield
- Keighley to Oxenhope*
- York to Leeds, via Knaresborough
- Hull to Scarborough
Whichever route you ride, hopefully you’ll agree with the words of Paul Simon: “there’s something about the sound of a train that is romantic, nostalgic and hopeful”.
Leeds to Dent: 90 minutes of blissful scenery
The Settle-Carlisle route is understandably the most praised train ride in England. Many trains start in Leeds and, to keep within the ancient boundaries of Yorkshire, we’ll get off in Dent, once firmly in the West Riding. This journey really is 90 minutes of bliss through Yorkshire’s finest scenery, especially beyond Skipton.
Leaving Leeds station, you witness how the city is growing, much of it in the form of swish high-rise offices and apartments along the river and canal. The ride north to Skipton is pleasant enough, and beyond it the splendour of the Dales kicks in. You are treated to spectacular views of all the Three Peaks.
The highlight for most is crossing Ribblehead Viaduct. Dent is the next stop and is the highest mainline station in England. This is fine walking country with plenty of choices for a stroll before boarding your return train. Be warned though, Dent itself is over four miles from the station, and a very steep climb up from the beguiling valley of the Dee.
Pickering to Whitby: steam heaven on wheels
The North York Moors Railway (NYMR) is quite simply the best heritage railway in the country. The full 24-mile route to Whitby is glorious; every mile, past moorland and river scenery, is a joy to travel.
The arrival, close to where the beautiful Esk meets the open sea, is invariably thrilling. I’ve ridden the line both ways dozens of times and even spent a blissful week in the camping coach at Levisham. Best of all, do seek out one of their Pullman dining services. The full meals are not cheap but worth every mouth-watering penny; they deliver heaven on wheels. There is something so special about dining on a train.
Sheffield to Huddersfield
As EM Forster said: “Railway termini. They are our gates to the glorious and the unknown”.
The journey from Sheffield to Huddersfield is far from fast, and even further from direct, it goes via Barnsley before striking west into the Pennines. Beyond Barnsley it really is delightful with sweeping views on both sides of the track. It’s well worth a break of journey at the bustling little town of Penistone with its majestic viaduct close to the station.
Then it’s on through Last of the Summer Wine country and fond memories of Compo sliding down hills in bathtubs or chasing Norah Batty! You arrive at Huddersfield over another tremendous viaduct – Yorkshire is full of them – at Lockwood.
This is a journey topped and tailed by two tremendous heritage stations. Sheffield and Huddersfield are widely seen as among the best in the country – see Simon Jenkins’ book, 100 Best Railway Stations. The classical frontage at Huddersfield is wonderful. There is a fine statue of the last, maybe the only, Yorkshire man to be prime minister, Harold Wilson.
Keighley to Oxenhope on the KWVR
Although relatively short at just five miles, the Keighley and Worth Valley Railway (KWVR) is one of the most iconic of the nation’s many preserved heritage lines. It’s a perfect branch line, evoking a golden age of travel.
It’s a ride with our cultural heritage too, particularly to Brontë-dominated Haworth but also with its film connections; the wonderful 1970 version of The Railway Children with its magnificent cast including dear Bernard Cribbins, was filmed here. One of the great moments of post-war cinema was shot at Oakworth Station when Jenny Agutter’s character realises her wrongly imprisoned father has come home. Her cry of “Daddy! My daddy!” always makes me tear up.
The line has a fine array of locomotives and rolling stock and is markedly innovative with its themed journeys, often featuring Yorkshire food and beer. The Worth valley scenery is a constant delight. Keighley itself is under-appreciated; it has some fine buildings and a beautiful museum a mile out of town at Cliffe Castle – their fabulous collection of Pre-Raphaelite stained glass is a highlight.
York to Leeds, via Knaresborough
You can travel swiftly to Leeds in less than 30 minutes on the main line. But if time is not your priority, it’s much better to take the slow train (with due homage to Flanders and Swann) that runs via two of our best towns to visit: Knaresborough and Harrogate.
Again, a particular pleasure of this route is the series of glorious viaducts, especially the one crossing the Nidd Gorge at Knaresborough, subject of many of the classic railway posters, designed, just like this article, to promote the pleasures of train travel. The landscape between York and Knaresborough is uneventful, but the pretty villages of Hammerton and Cattal have stations.
From Knaresborough there is far more drama and the town itself makes for a smashing day out, boating on the river beneath the railway is a favourite of mine, so long as somebody else does the rowing. Harrogate is a town for enjoying the good things in life, like the Turkish Baths, the Mercer Art Gallery and Betty’s Café Tea Rooms. Then it’s on towards Leeds, the views are incredibly lovely, especially when crossing our most sylvan of rivers, the Wharfe. Ah, yet another possible ‘best of’ article.
Hull to Scarborough
This is the line I know best, as I’ve lived adjacent to it for 35 years and must have used it a thousand times or more. Hull also has more to appeal to the visitor than many realise: The Deep, the fine museums and galleries, and the historic Old Town are all splendid. So is the sublimely named Paragon Station which has some outstanding architectural features, notably the tiled former booking hall, which I understand is about to become a bar.
Nine miles north, along what is marketed as the Yorkshire Coast Line, we reach Beverley. The Minster is a short stroll from the station. Of course, Beverley is a beautiful town, but that has been covered elsewhere. Moving ever northwards towards Driffield, a traditional market town of great charm, until we finally reach the coast at the bustling resort of Bridlington with its fantastic beaches. It’s surprising how many people, enticed by the seaside attractions, never make it up to Bridlington Old Town, just a 15-minute walk from the station. With its period houses, priory church, cafes, pubs and interesting shops. it’s a great destination.
After Bridlington, the line becomes single track and the scenery even more lovely, with glimpses of the sea. Bempton has the noted RSPB site, Hunmanby is a near-perfect village, and Filey is probably the most elegant of our coastal towns. Scarborough is a fitting terminus to all our rail journeys around Yorkshire. Rail has been bringing countless millions of people here to enjoy the town and its beaches for almost 200 years. As we look across the glorious South Bay towards the castle, we can take extra pleasure: if trains brought you here, trains will take you home again.
Happy travels.
