Despite long standing local family businesses Rowntree’s and Terry’s falling into the hands of foreign conglomerates Nestlé and Kraft in recent years and producing – some might say – vastly inferior chocolate, the ancient city of York still pulls its weight in the cocoa game.
York Cocoa Works, situated on Castlegate near Clifford’s Tower (opposite the original Rowntree’s site), was opened by Sophie Jewett and Michelle Procter in 2011 and is one of three artisan chocolate producers in the city. The others are Monk Bar Chocolatiers on the Shambles and Guppy’s on the outskirts. They are complemented by York’s Chocolate Story, near the Minster, a museum featuring interactive exhibits dedicated to our national obsession.
Ethical, high-quality chocolate
York Cocoa Works tries to use a transparent and fair cocoa bean to chocolate bar supply chain by working with traders and farmers directly. The resulting chocolate is of a high quality, meeting the required industry standards. In the UK, milk chocolate must contain at least 25% cocoa solids and white chocolate must contain a minimum of 20% cocoa butter to be legally sold as chocolate; there is no minimum standard for dark chocolate.
The bigger brands do not meet these quotas, so their products can only be described as ‘chocolate flavoured’.
The golden ticket
Receiving a chocolate making experience-for-two voucher for Christmas was like receiving the fabled golden ticket to Willy Wonka’s chocolate factory – it allowed me to pull back the curtain and see how my favourite treat is made.
What followed was a whistle-stop tour of the history and science behind chocolate making and a practical demonstration of artisan production, all under the supervision of our helpful tutor. One thing that I did not realise is how susceptible chocolate is to disease. I learned that moths love to eat cocoa beans and lay their eggs on the crops, so farmers have to guard against their infestation as they can do significant damage to their business. Monkeys, bats, birds and rodents also have a taste for cocoa beans.
As participants do not have time to grow and harvest the cocoa beans themselves during the 90-minute timeslot, we deconstructed, tempered (slowly heating and cooling the chocolate to achieve a smooth, shiny finish) and decorated our own chocolate bar, encompassing our preferred textures, flavours and toppings, before waiting for the mixture to set.
Range of activities
The chocolate making workshops are led by a welcoming and knowledgeable instructor and are suitable for all ages and abilities. They are perfect for couples, families or single people and are a great experience for special occasions, such as school holidays, Christmas, Valentine’s Day, Easter – or indeed, for no reason at all!
Other activities include a tour of the tastefully decorated factory, complete with chocolate-themed jigsaws and original Rowntree’s signs on the wall; the Masterclass Program, which incorporates bean to bar chocolate making, tempering techniques and making caramels, fondants and Easter eggs as well as professional training, which includes product development and industry insights. If you’re passing, you can drop into the onsite café and sample the delicious hot chocolate and tempting treats. Alcohol lovers are also well served as the factory shop sells chocolate stout and chocolate gin, alongside its signature artisan chocolate truffles and cocoa pods.
Looking to the future
It may be a couple of centuries since York’s Chocolate City heyday but by promoting local artisan makers and emphasising its signature flair, its status as the UK’s confectionery capital is assured for years to come.
*Check out York Cocoa House Chocolate Emporium – York Cocoa Works to book activities, buy chocolate, find recipes and learn about York’s chocolate history. You can also pick up a York Chocolate Trail guide from the Tourist Information Centre at 21 Parliament Street, York.
