Yorkshire has an incredible variety of historic churches to visit and enjoy. Some are in stunning countryside, such as at Hubberholme in Wharfedale, or Kirkdale, near Pickering. Others lie at the centre of handsome villages or historic towns, such as at Tickhill or Rotherham, both in the south of our region. All have been at the heart of their communities for centuries: time capsules of faith, and of generations of life and death.
Selecting six of the very best to visit is very difficult, as there are hundreds to choose from. Aside from my personal preferences, I am also guided by some outstanding writers on church architecture, such as John Betjeman and Simon Jenkins, and of course, Nikolaus Pevsner. Each of those churches selected are usually open during daylight hours to visitors and offer other attractions in their vicinity to the curious traveller or, at least, one in need of refreshment.
Six of the best Yorkshire churches
- St Patrick’s, Patrington
- Beverley Minster
- Selby Abbey
- Nun Monkton
- St Martin’s Scarborough
- Ripon Cathedral
St Patrick’s, Patrington (The Queen of Holderness)
Some 16 miles east of Hull, lost in the endless flatlands of Holderness, lies one of the most beautiful buildings in England. Both the exterior of silvery limestone and the rich interior are as close to perfection as ecclesiastical architecture comes. It was built largely in the early 14th century in the richly Decorated style of Gothic.
Simon Jenkins only awards 18 churches in England his coveted five stars. This is one of them – and it’s worthy of six! You usually get to enjoy the interior on your own, so remote is its location. The complete set of Easter sepulchre, piscina and sedilia, along with a sublime Lady Chapel, are just some of the delights. If you have never visited, choose a sunny day and you will be amply rewarded. The large village of Patrington has lots of refreshment options too.
Beverley Minster
“Stands with the finest Gothic churches in Europe” – John Betjeman
The spectacular church of Beverley Minster lies 20 miles to the northwest of St Patrick’s. This is a very special building for me, I have lived just stones throws away for the past 35 years. I have a glorious view of it from my attic. I was also married here, and two of my children were baptised in its marvellous font.
For lovers of architecture there is a veritable banquet to enjoy, inside and out. The soaring twin west towers are a delight, the nave vaulting outstanding, the carvings on the Percy Tomb stunning. Always welcoming, a visit is highly recommended. For an extra treat, book a roof and/or a tower tour for thrilling views. Beverley is a beautiful town with much to enjoy and explore.
Selby Abbey
“A stately old lady” – Simon Jenkins
Heading 35 miles west into the North Riding, we find another medieval spectacular, Selby Abbey. It’s a little less beautiful than Beverley, a bit more bruised by the ravages of time, yet it is a thrilling space, especially the commanding nave with its Norman pillars. A welcome feature is the splendid community cafe in the north transept. It’s a friendly place: the last time I was there a custodian gave me a personal tour. Selby itself is an interesting town, the ancient marketplace is right next to the abbey, and the heritage New Inn pub is highly recommended.
St Mary’s, Nun Monkton
“Superb works of Morris glass” – Simon Jenkins
Nun Monkton is a beautiful village at the end of a cul-de-sac lane, some 6 miles west of York and a world away from the busy traffic of the A59. It has a huge village green, with a maypole and a very highly regarded pub. Hidden in trees at the far end of the village lies the gorgeous church, the relic of a medieval nunnery. The west front is delightful and the soaring arcades of the nave quite breathtaking. It’s also home to some outstanding Victorian Pre-Raphaelite glass. It sparkles on sunny days, a veritable joy to behold.
St Martin’s, Scarborough
“The pulpit is a Pre-Raphaelite gem” – Nikolaus Pevsner
High on the south side of Yorkshire’s premier holiday resort, St Martin’s is not especially attractive on the outside – but what lies within is a treasure house of high Victorian art and design. This church of the 1860s is filled with stunning stained glass by the likes of William Morris and Edward Burne-Jones.
Every ornament and surface is alive with their design. Most striking of all is the pulpit with beautiful artwork in the panels by the master artist Dante Gabriel Rosetti. A more recent development is the fantastic cafe, where fine and inexpensive home-cooked food is on offer most afternoons. The soups and cakes are particularly delightful, and the prom is nearby to walk off the calories!
Ripon Cathedral
We go west for our final church, Ripon Cathedral. Ripon is the smallest of Yorkshire’s eight cities (a good pub quiz challenge is to name them all!). The tiny city is full of interest, with the cathedral rising grandly, just off the marketplace, with its powerful early Gothic west front. Inside there is much of interest: glorious carved misericord seating in the choir, an art nouveau pulpit and the stunning Saxon Ripon Jewel. The Anglo-Saxon crypt from around 670 is one of the very earliest Christian structures in the country. The city has lots of fine pubs, eateries and shops.
You’ll never reach the end of Yorkshire’s historic churches. After almost 50 years of exploring, I’m always finding new ones to enjoy, such as last Sunday when I was able to view the tiny Norman church at Skerne. So, happy steeple chasing and church crawling.
