There are 129 alluring entries in the Yorkshire inventory of heritage pubs produced by the Campaign For Real Ale (CAMRA). It seemed a worthy plan to visit as many as possible to help decide which are the six best.
I can now claim to have spent time in over 70, with many happy hours pondering which are the finest to visit for their unique combination of great drinks, convivial company, and most especially architectural splendour. To make the final cut, they each had to have much to offer in the above criteria. I also felt it was important to cover a wide range of locations across our Broad Acres, particularly as all three Ridings have so much to offer the lover of fine drinking in real pubs.
The disclaimer
As with all such lists, it comes with caveats. This is my opinion alone; if your favourite is not here, I not only apologise but admit I may be wrong and open to a change of mind. Moreover, some of my six are here partly because I have lived near them and they have played a big part in my life.
As a historian, I wanted to include pubs from different periods, not just from the golden age of historic pubs – the opulent late Victorian and Edwardian era. It is most important that we recognise the vital importance of all traditional pubs with architectural appeal, especially when so many have been changed beyond all recognition by unsympathetic alterations (notably opening out, invariably disastrous for an historic interior), have closed, or have been usurped by anonymous modern structures.
So raise a glass to all that Yorkshire has preserved of its great pub heritage; as CAMRA say: “Some of them are treasures of national stature and all are joy to visit.”
Six of the best heritage pubs in Yorkshire
- The Bath Hotel – Sheffield
- The Three Pigeons – Halifax
- Garden Gate – Hunslet
- The Swan – York
- White Horse (Nellies) – Beverley
- The Black Horse – Whitby
My tour proceeds in a south to north direction. It does not attempt to decide which on the list are the better – that is a call I feel reluctant to make. Each of my six is so wonderful to visit, it would somehow seem wrong to rank them. It is a happy coincidence that four are near to railway stations, the other two on tram or bus routes. Using public transport to visit might of course be essential!
The best of Sheffield
Sheffield, while not quite in the same league as York, Hull or Leeds for its number of fine heritage pubs, certainly has some splendid ones. The tiles and etched glass of the popular Grapes on Trippett Lane, where the Arctic Monkeys first came to prominence, are special and the riot of lovingly restored woodwork and ceramics in the Edwardian refreshment rooms at Sheffield’s railway station – now trading as The Sheffield Tap – are outstanding, among the finest spaces to wait for a train anywhere.
The best pub interior is undoubtedly The Bath Hotel, conveniently within staggering distance of the West Street tram stops in the bustling university area. Remodelled in 1931, it oozes the charms of the jazz age: terrazzo flooring, etched glass, intimate rooms and cubicles. The beers on offer are extensive and well kept. To visit, is a pub-lovers’ delight.
The best of Halifax
Now over to Halifax, which of course has much fine architecture, notably the magnificent Piece Hall. Just a few hundred yards to the west at Sun Fold lies one of the gems of pub architecture – the Art Deco feast of The Three Pigeons.
The interior is almost too good to be true. Off a striking and unique octagonal drinking lobby, characterful small rooms open out, each utterly charming and complemented by well-chosen pictures and fittings. The landlord is understandably proud of his charge, speaking lovingly of its qualities. The Ossett brewery beers on offer are first class. I particularly like the Deco lettering on two of the room doors; there is nothing comparable left elsewhere in the UK.
The best of Leeds
Now a short train ride to the thriving metropolis that is modern Leeds, rather swankier now than when I last lived there in 1981. It has also preserved a remarkable range of magnificent pub interiors, arguably the best set outside of London. Pride of place in the city centre must go to Whitelocks, a rare survivor of an elegant luncheon bar, much loved by that connoisseur of all that is best in English architecture, Sir John Betjeman, who rightly called it the “very heart of Leeds”. His short film, The Poet Goes North, is a joy to watch.
However, it is to the Leeds suburbs that one is drawn to find the very best pub interiors. The Cardigan Arms at Burley is well worth seeking out, while at The Garden Gate, in otherwise unheralded Hunslet, lies one of the pub architecture wonders, not just of Yorkshire, but of the entire country.
As a raw 18-year-old, this was my local in 1978. I recall the beer was good and cheap, yet in those days the incredible architecture from 1902, made absolutely no impression on me. The glowing tribute in the CAMRA guide (“probably the jewel in the crown … a treasure house of Edwardian decorative art”) was what enticed me back. What an astonishing pub, bursting with art nouveau tiles, the finest mahogany fittings, etched glass, ceramic fireplaces and bar counter, with elegant mosaic flooring. Fittingly, the local Burmantofts firm made the glowing bottle green tiles and glazed ceramics that give this amazing space unrivalled appeal.
Ornate pubs such as this were known as drinking palaces – here we have Yorkshire’s own Blenheim! Oh, and the beer is still splendid and good value!
Lovers of heritage pubs may find it hard to leave Leeds behind. If travelling by train, the fabulous Aldpehi on Leeds Bridge, near the station, is too good to miss.
The best of York
Our tour takes us on to yet another stunning collection of heritage pubs, this time in York. It is no surprise that such an historic city has so many fine pubs on offer. The Blue Bell on Fossgate, The Minster Inn on Marygate and the Golden Ball in Cromwell Road are just a few of the many and varied historic interiors to enjoy.
For arguably the best, go just outside the city walls, onto lively Bishopsthorpe Road, to enjoy the highly distinctive Swan. It has a memorable 1930s set of internal features, even down to the ceramics in the gents. A real local too, of a kind sadly vanishing from many areas.
The best of Beverley
Some 30 miles to the east lies Beverley, which many regard as York’s equally beautiful little sister. It has been my home for 35 years.
Aside from the majestic minster, we have some fine pubs, such as the diminutive Woolpack near the Westwood. The most distinctive, historic, and well-loved is an East Riding institution: The White Horse, more commonly known as Nellies, after the eponymous former legendary landlady. The warren of sparsely furnished, gas-lit, coal-fired rooms have a character like no other.
It has long been known also for its inexpensive drinks; indeed comedian Paul Merton had the audience of Just A Minute institches, when recording in the town a few years ago, by comparing favourably the price of three pints he bought there with that of just one in London.
With snow falling, the pub takes on an even greater magic – you feel like an extra in a Harry Potter film.
The best of Whitby
Our final port of call lies fittingly over on our stunning coast at Whitby. On bustling Sandgate lies the Victorian Black Horse, just two tiny rooms, yet full of fine glass, woodwork and tiles. Apart from the excellent beer, it also offers Yorkshire tapas. Who can resist?
In memoriam and addendum
Sadly, some gems have closed in recent times: The Rising Sun in Leeds and Bradford’s glorious Cock and Bottle. These are losses that bring tears to the eyes of heritage pub lovers.
All the remaining ones demand our affection and our visits. You will be richly rewarded, especially if you seek to enjoy all six described here.
Addendum: The writing of six pubs puts me in mind of an old Dales character who could not resist the special offer at his local one Saturday night: six pints for the price of five! When he eventually rolled home in the early hours, he was on the end of a mighty tongue-lashing from his irate wife: “What time does tha call this Seth Metcalfe to be comin’ ‘ome blind drunk?” To which Seth replied – as any true Yorkshireman would – “What tha moanin’ about lass, ‘ave just been out savin’ us money!”
