As spring turns to summer, many of us will be heading for the beach. If you are lucky enough to live in, or near to, Yorkshire, you have many beaches along our 90 miles of coast to choose from – ranging from Spurn in the south to Staithes in the north. Indeed, if we include the old North Riding resorts, now in Cleveland, there are well over 100 miles of coastline – much of it lovely and often dramatic. Let’s visit six of our best beaches, all very different but each offering that sense of freedom in our crowded landscapes and busy lives.
We’ll head from south to north, starting at enigmatic Spurn and ending at glorious Runswick. My six of the best are:
- Spurn
- Bridlington South Bay
- Flamborough North Landing
- Filey Bay
- Hayburn Wyke
- Runswick Bay
Of course, these are just my favourites; many others are available and may have even more appeal for you.
To the Spurn Lighthouse
There is nowhere quite like Spurn – a constantly shifting sand and shingle three-mile peninsula. Even on a fine day in August it feels empty and remote: I walked the whole circuit, starting at the splendid new Discovery Centre, and saw very few people once beyond the car park.
The beaches are vast and atmospheric. A climb to the top of the lighthouse is a real thrill, as are the many remaining second world war military installations. It’s a bird watcher’s paradise, especially on the estuary side. Incredibly, there was recently even a pine marten thought to have travelled here from the far-away Dalby Forest.
Looking out to sea, it’s humbling to think that 700 years ago a thriving port – Ravenser Odd – was here, but fell victim to the changing tides and shifting sands (the port is mentioned by Shakespeare, and two English kings landed here). For atmosphere, Spurn is hard to beat. There is a fine cafe and toilets at the centre, and the lighthouse sells snacks.
Glorious sand dunes
We now head up the crumbling coast of Holderness, with plenty of beaches and the splendid small resort of Hornsea. But it’s at Bridlington Bay that, in my view, the beaches change from pleasant to beautiful. The sands in the huge bay are vast, stretching from Fraisthorpe to Sewerby.
The centre of the resort has all the refreshments and amusements you’d expect, as well as the ever-popular land train. My favourite part is the glorious sand dunes at Wilsthorpe, easily accessed from the park and ride. These are unique to Yorkshire – a real gem. North Beach is perhaps better for swimming – though, sadly, water quality issues are deterring many people from taking a dip here and along much of our coast.
Dramatic chalk cliffs
Now on to the dramatic chalk cliffs of the distinctive headland at Flamborough. There are five beaches around the headland, all well worth a visit. Danes Dyke is a natural paradise and Thornwick is stunning, but a demanding climb to reach.
The best of the five, with fairly easy access, is the popular North Landing. It has ample car parking, a good cafe, and even an open-top bus to and from Bridlington in the summer. Hidden in the cliffs is a lovely waterfall, reachable when the tide is low – do check. From here, a walk south to the pair of lighthouses is highly recommended; the coastal scenery is simply magnificent.
The beautiful resort of Filey
Now on past Bempton – with its famous Royal Society for the Protection of Birds centre – to the beautiful resort of Filey, sitting proud above its own extensive bay with magnificent stretches of golden sands from Speeton to the famous Brigg. Filey has just the right amount of everything a perfect day at the seaside demands (so far this year, that has even included great weather!). It has a station on the Yorkshire coastline between Hull and Scarborough, just a short walk from the fabulous beaches.
Hayburn Wyke – a Victorian paradise
From Filey we head north, passing more wonderful beaches – especially Cayton Bay and the lively resort beaches of Scarborough. But our next stop is a much more secretive spot, better known in Victorian times than nowadays. You will have to seek out Hayburn Wyke, but it will be well worth the effort.
From the parking area by the splendid pub, woodland paths wind down to a rocky bay, with a sublime waterfall cascading right onto the beach. This is best seen when in spate. When I was last there on a fine day in early October, people were even wild swimming.
The Victorians loved places like this. Hayburn Wyke had its own station on the long-since closed Scarborough to Whitby line, which is now the splendid Cinder Track leisure route – almost 20 miles of Yorkshire glory!
It’s almost a crime to leave out the beaches of Robin Hood’s Bay, Whitby, and Sandsend. But our final port of call, in my view, trumps them all when it comes to the quality of beach. Runswick Bay is just wonderful; I enjoyed many happy holidays here when my children were young. Even the water always seemed warm in the sheltered bay.
The village, with its pantiled cottages clinging to the cliffs, is thrilling to explore, and there are plenty of refreshment options. The vet, Alf Wight – better known by his penname of James Herriot – loved it here, often staying in the striking thatched cottage perched just above the waves.
So, six unforgettable days out – especially if the sun keeps shining.
