The words of the noted architectural historian, Alec Clifton-Taylor “If you love buildings you will never reach the end of England” can certainly be applied specifically to Yorkshire. My task of selecting six of the best from such a galaxy of stars is made a little easier as I exclude churches and pubs, as I’ve covered these in previous articles, and railway stations, which may feature in the future.
I’ve chosen two of our many stately homes, a castle, a cinema, the most captivating of our many monastic ruins (deciding which was a huge challenge), and a unique commercial building. As always, apologies if a favourite of yours isn’t here.
My Six of the Best:
- Burton Agnes Hall
- Conigsbrough Castle, Doncaster
- The Piece Hall, Halifax
- Markenfield Hall, Ripon
- Hyde Park Picture House, Leeds
- Byland Abbey
Burton Agnes Hall – The perfect English house
There is so much to enjoy at Burton Agnes, situated mid-way between Driffield and Bridlington in the East Riding. A stunning late-Elizabethan home is complimented by beautiful gardens and the delightful surprise of a wonderful art collection, including many French Impressionist masterworks. The perfect English house as Simon Jenkins says. There is even a much earlier Norman manor house to explore. A fine cafe and adventure play area for kids make this a great destination.
Conigsbrough Castle, Doncaster – Mighty Conigsbrough
Yorkshire is full of castles, testimony to our turbulent history. Many are still grand affairs, notably the fine Wensleydale pair at Bolton and Middleham. Others are much reduced from their glory days, such as Wressle and Sheriff Hutton. My favourite, tucked away in a little visited part of South Yorkshire, is mighty Conigsbrough. The 12th century keep was at the peak of military innovation and it still stands to its full height giving visitors stunning views over the Don valley. Small wonder Sir Walter Scott used the castle as his inspiration for his medieval epic, Ivanhoe.
The Piece Hall, Halifax – a triumphant restoration
There is nothing quite like Halifax Piece Hall in England, nor in the entire world. A vast Georgian trading complex of astonishing richness that had fallen into some disrepair when I first visited 30 years ago. In recent times, it has witnessed a triumphant restoration. On a sunny day the galleries, colonnades and central piazza glow as sublimely as any building in Tuscany. It hosts an incredible array of independent shops, eateries and bars. It really is the jewel in the crown of Halifax’s rich architectural heritage.
Markenfield Hall, Ripon
Even in our county of many beautiful old buildings, Markenfield Hall is jaw-droppingly stunning. Moats always enhance a castle or hall and this one perfectly surrounds the fabulous 14th century architecture. Use their website to discover when it is open to visitors, as the proud current occupants rightly say “Markenfield is one of the few medieval manor houses that would still be recognisable to its original owners”. Finding it can be challenging, even though it is just off the busy A61 between Harrogate and Ripon: it more than repays the effort.
Hyde Park Picture House, Leeds – The golden age of movie-going lives on
This is the building to which I feel most closely attached. It is a cinema from the golden age of movie-going, with an ornate interior rich in woodwork, tiles and glass; much of it from its original opening in 1914. As a university student, 45 years ago, I was a besotted regular. Back then they put on late-night shows with cartoons as well as the main feature, and many of the clientele were worse for wear after a night out in the Headingley pubs – but this made for an electric atmosphere when Bugs Bunny or Woody Woodpecker appeared! Here, I first saw such classics as Manhattan, Night Porter and Network. I went back last autumn on a most commendable Heritage Open Day. This glorious cinema has been wonderfully restored and extended. It’s an absolute joy to visit; such a contrast to soulless multiplexes.
Byland Abbey – remarkably, a free-to-access site
I had to include one of Yorkshire’s many wonderful, ruined monasteries; the problem seemed to be how to choose between two truly great Cistercian sites: Rievaulx or Fountains? The latter has the grander and more complete set of buildings, the former is so beautifully situated in the valley of the sylvan Rye. In all honesty Fountains could be my favourite one day, but fond reflections on wandering through Rievaulx would make that my choice, the next.
Well, I resolved the matter, and my selection is neither of these worthy titans, but the far less celebrated Byland. Remarkably, it is now a free to access site and you will often have it pretty much to yourself, which is never the case at Fountains or Rievaulx.
Byland is a huge site, full of surprises and puzzles to thrill the lover of historic buildings. The west front is absolutely glorious, there are two cloisters and an amazing array of buildings for the monks and lay brothers, who lived separately. Most remarkable of all, are the floor tiles, still in situ after 900 years. They are simply astonishing. Sitting on a bench at this wonderful site on a perfect summer day is a fitting place to end this tour of some of Yorkshire’s finest historic buildings.
Enjoy your own explorations, they will afford you a lifetime of unceasing pleasure.
