The Yorkshire Wolds, because of its unique geological and geomorphological structure, is a very distinctive part of the Yorkshire Region. This is one of the most northerly chalk landscapes in Europe, in some ways a landscape more typical of southern England, but nevertheless distinctively Yorkshire. The relatively low, smooth hills, eroded by glaciation and aeons of freeze-thaw weathering, are divided by a series of remarkable dry, grassy valleys or dales.
A land made by ice and water
This is an intensively cultivated landscape, and unlike the Yorkshire Dales or North York Moors, the hills’ summits are arable fields, but the valley bottoms are often open access land where the public can walk at will.
Water shortages in the chalk uplands have ensured the main centres of population, the market towns and larger villages, have all developed around the periphery of the chalk uplands, usually along the spring lines where the aquifers seep into chalk streams and rivers. The much smaller villages of the High Wolds such as Thixendale, Fridaythorpe and Huggate (which has England’s deepest well) were, in the centuries before piped water, dependent on wells and ponds which often disappeared in time of drought.
Heritage, wildlife and landscape
The valley sides and remnants of old woodlands are rich in wildlife interest as are the chalk streams, but of particular interest in the Wolds area is its archaeology, with evidence of Bronze and Iron Age occupation (particularly close to the Humber estuary) remains of Roman villas, and a remarkable number of deserted medieval villages of which Wharram Percy is perhaps the most famous. But there is also a dramatic coastline, including the spectacular Flamborough Head, with caves of huge natural heritage interest; and Bempton Cliffs, a nationally important RSPB Bird Reserve.
For everyone who loves the Yorkshire Wolds, there is delight that part of the area is now under active examination by Natural England to be designated as an Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty (AONB). This is the exactly the same national landscape protection status as has been enjoyed for decades by the perhaps less spectacular Lincolnshire Wolds across the Humber.
AONB designation – will it go far enough?
There is some disappointment however that the initial area suggested by Natural England for AONB status is only a limited, albeit fine, part of the chalk landscape, mainly in the North Yorkshire part of the High Wolds. Many environmentalists believe that only by including the surrounding areas of wider Wolds landscape will the central ‘Jewels in the Crown’ be adequately protected.
The unity of the wider area, including the coast, needs be recognised. Indeed, the peripheral market towns such as Market Weighton, Pocklington, Malton, Driffield, Hunmanby, Filey and Beverley – one of the most beautiful historic towns in England – are all part of the wider Wolds experience. All would benefit from AONB designation.
Recognition of the Yorkshire Wolds AONB will undoubtedly benefit the area economically both with sustainable forms of tourism and in conservation investment. More day and staying visitors will help support and sustain local shops, services and public transport.
Whilst there is an inevitable tiny minority who do not want any extra visitors, in reality much of the area contains pockets of serious rural poverty and deprivation where extra jobs and visitor spend are badly needed. The Wolds will never be about mass tourism, but an increase in the number of walkers, cyclists and horse riders staying in the area will provide desperately needed extra jobs and support for small businesses.
A key factor in the AONB destination, reflecting the recent Glover report, is the proximity of the great city of Hull, for whose residents the Wolds is a wonderful area of easily accessible health-giving green recreation close to the city boundaries. The Wolds are the ‘green lungs’ of the city.
The 90-mile Yorkshire Wolds Way National Trail, now celebrating its 40th anniversary, leads from Hessle on the outskirts of Hull to Filey Brigg on the coast, following the magnificent Wolds escarpments overlooking the Vale of York and the Vale of Pickering as well as linking High Wolds villages. The Wolds Way is perhaps the finest introduction of all to the essence of the Wolds.
Prospects for a global Geopark – recognition of a unique landscape
But an even more exciting prospect for not just the Wolds, but for a wider area of East Yorkshire landscape, is now being explored. A group of academics and environmentalists are now working together to create what would bring international recognition for the sub-region – an East Yorkshire UNESCO global geopark.
Geoparks are areas of countryside internationally important not just for their natural beauty and geological interest, but wider archaeological, cultural and historic importance. There are seven geoparks within the UK – including parts of the Shetlands, Anglesey, Brecon Beacons, the English Riviera, the Black Country, North-west Scottish Highlands, and North Pennines.
The case for a geopark in East Yorkshire is a strong one. Areas under investigation include not just the Wolds but Holderness and the River Hull (all overlying the chalk strata), Spurn Point, Hornsea Mere, the Derwent Valley (including the Lower Derwent National Nature Reserve) and the Humber foreshore, again internationally important for marine and birdlife.
Unlike an AONB, a geopark must be both local community-led and already operating successfully with community involvement and support, before it can be considered for UNESCO designation. Essentially it is an education-led project, looking at the geology and natural history of the area, related to a rich and diverse cultural heritage. It has nothing to do with new planning measures or restrictions, though clearly helping to justify conservation of the natural and man-made environment in the fullest sense.
Support from academia and community
Excellent therefore that two of the region’s leading universities, York St John’s and Hull, are involved with the project, together with such leading environmental groups as the Yorkshire Wildlife Trust, The Yorkshire Geological Society, the Yorkshire Wolds Heritage Trust, the Yorkshire Society, PLACE Yorkshire, CPRE North & East Yorkshire, and many smaller, more local organisations and groups. Both East Riding and North Yorkshire Councils are supportive. Over the coming months, events will be co-ordinated, scientific papers, research and literature brought together into a single bibliography, and an awareness raising campaign launched.
The aim – and it may require three or four years’ work – will be to build up a case to present to the international UNESCO geopark inspectors who will have to visit East Yorkshire and see for themselves evidence for the Park, including the degree to which this whole process is not led by bureaucrats but by local communities within East Yorkshire.
It is a huge and exciting challenge but one which, in difficult times, offers hope and optimism for the future, a chance to channel enthusiasm, and a new sense of identity and pride, into an internationally recognised project for the people of the whole of Yorkshire.
This is the fourth in a series examining the nine distinctive Cultural Landscapes of Yorkshire by Colin Speakman, whose co-authored book The Yorkshire Wolds – a Journey of Discovery is now in its second edition. If you are interested in knowing more and perhaps supporting the activities of the Working group, see https://eygeopark.wordpress.com or contact eygeopark@gmail.com.
