The Leeds Carnival is considered the most popular annual cultural event in the UK and it takes place herein West Yorkshire. It’s Europe’s oldest Caribbean carnival, which started in 1966 to celebrate Caribbean culture. From Jamaica to Trinidad, from Barbados to St Kitts and Nevis and America, people travel from far and wide to this ‘not to be missed’ event.
The Caribbean Carnival (original title: Leeds West Indian Carnival) takes place every August bank holiday weekend and lasts for three days, climaxing in a carnival procession from Potternewton Park, through Harehills, Roundhay Road, onto Barrack Road, then Chapeltown Road and back to the park. It is estimated that about 150,000 people attend the carnival.
The Caribbean Carnival is a celebration of music, art and culture. Equally, it is a sharing of diverse cultural heritage.
Dawn in the park at Leeds Carnival
The sun is rising. It is early on the morning of the carnival and people, in party attire from a dance the night before or dressed in pyjamas and comfortable clothes only worn around the house are dispersing, slowly making their way home after an eventful early morning of J’ouvert.
J’ouvert, a French Creole term meaning ‘dawn’ or ‘daybreak’. In the Caribbean it can be referred to as Juvay, meaning, ‘the opening’, and it is where people, already partying from the night before, come together to form a procession of music and dance in the street. J’ouvert is considered, the party before ‘The Party’ (the carnival party) which, begins at 6am, ends at 10am and sets the scene for the main carnival event at 2pm.
A walk in the park
Early morning is one of the best parts of this festive day. Walking from the top end of the park there is a natural buzz of excitement from people out for a stroll. As entrepreneurs busily set up their stalls, you walk into an explosion of sounds, aromas, sights, tastes and touch to delight the senses. From the wonderful bass-heavy sounds of reggae to the syncopated tempo of soca and calypso, all will have you swaying to the rhythm of the beat.
Typically, these stalls would sell clothing, jewellery and artisanal goods. But the real gem of the carnival is the food from around the world. For each vendor preparation is key and the vendors are usually setting up in the park at the break of dawn. It is important to cook food fast to avoid lengthy queues forming. Setting up the generators and propane in good time ensures enough energy to run the kitchen stall in the park for the duration of the carnival. Taking the time to prepare carefully, ensures the stalls are safe and clean as health and safety are a key concern for the vendors.
Early morning in Chapeltown
From the park take the side streets, to emerge at the start of Chapeltown Road to begin a culinary journey through this 20-mile stretch. Here you will experience the sights, tastes and aroma of Caribbean cuisine infused with colour, flavour and spices. From jerk chicken, salt fish and ackee to plantain chips and coconut shrimp to name but a few.
Here the streets are lined with stalls. A gastronomic delight and a ‘must try’ recipe is the jerk chicken grilled to, perfection in a steel drum. It has a chard, spicy smoky aroma that draws you in. This is served with rice and peas, one of the staples of Caribbean cuisine. This dish is a combination of rice and tender kidney beans (not from the tin) cooked in coconut milk and infused with thyme, garlic, red and green peppers – and scotch bonnet if you are brave.
Continuing your journey to the next stall you take in the sweet smell of rum punch, a refreshing cocktail accompaniment to any meal. No sooner have you smelt the aroma of the rum punch than you are surprised by the assault on your senses from spiced nuts, a savoury snack roasted and coated in a blend of spices. For those preferring a healthy alternative, there are the thinly sliced plantains fried until crispy and lightly salted, perfect for dipping in salsa or guacamole or enjoying on its own. All the way up Chapeltown Road early in the morning there is one culinary cuisine surprise after another with a vibrant spectacle of food, colour and music.
The carnival has always been, a celebration of Caribbean culture and music that promotes social unity.
The carnival procession begins
It is 2pm. The carnival parade has gathered in the park with costumes and troupes on display mounted on floats that will parade them around the streets, sounding out the traditional and the contemporary carnival music of steel pan, soca, drum and calypso.
As the music begins the troupes gyrate with their dance routine. The tradition of dance is the signature of the carnival. The participants in their costumes are mounted on moving stands, drawn along by decorated lorries and dancing to the music. As the excitement and energy build, the crowd watching are also seen to join the troupes in dance.
As the carnival proceeds out of the park, turning left down Harehills Avenue, a full range of music can be heard. Beating drums, blasting trumpets and shrieking whistles to announce the start of the parade. At this point there is a huge range of music from different stalls in and outside the park. Some locals who live near the park will have secured their sound systems to play reggae music on their front lawns. As well, as this, each float carrying music plays its tunes. All these different genres of music come together to build the excitement of the carnival and street fest
Thousands of people line the route of the carnival. Along the way, some join the dancing troupes and the bands leading the many colourful and bright-coloured costumed participants. Heightened anticipation awaits the carnival as it reaches its highest point in Chapeltown. Here is where to capture all the excitement and energy of the West Indian carnival. People come from all over the world to enjoy this spectacular event and you are welcome.
If you want to visit this year’s Carnival, you can find more information here.
