Returning to Cusworth Hall, Doncaster recently to help celebrate the 20-year anniversary of The Friends of Cusworth Hall was a delicious trip down memory lane. My own association with the hall and the Museum Service had enabled me to build up my knowledge of heritage baking and learn some new skills, while enjoying every moment! This time, I had been invited to give a talk as part of the celebrations. What a delight to see so many in the audience who had come to hear all about my Cusworth Hall story.
During the mid-18th century, Cusworth Hall, a manor house), the home of the Battie-Wrightson family, and the Doncaster Mansion House were built. The latter was especially important as a place for corporate entertaining, but similar fine dining would have taken place at Cusworth Hall as well.
Lavish entertaining in Georgian times
The Georgians were fond of extravagant feasts with elaborate courses, which were all served on the table at the same time. These frequently ended with a tea board with cake and biscuits.
Both Cusworth and the Mansion House had Great Kitchens where servants would have prepared food. Sadly, by modern times, the original ovens were not in use. But I made syllabub and junket from recipes by Yorkshire cook, Hannah Glasse in The Art of Cookery Made Plain and Easy (1747), for events at both venues to celebrate the Georgians.
A Doncaster ‘woman of substance’
Doncaster-born Elizabeth Raffald (1733-81) was one of the most interesting of Georgian cooks, featuring high on my list of ‘jewels’ in local food history. Employed by a family at a large house in Cheshire, she went on to run a confectionery shop, a cookery school and a catering business. She created the first employment agency for servants, and the first trade directory, as well as being acknowledged as the first cook to make a Bride’s Cake with almond paste and royal icing: the precursor to the modern tradition of the wedding cake.
The Great Kitchen at Cusworth
Although I was never able to cook on the original range at Cusworth Hall, I spent many happy afternoons demonstrating the sorts of bakes which the cooks and kitchen maids including Eliza Hadrill (from Berkshire) and Ada Briggs (from Lincolnshire), would have prepared. Both of these employees are listed on the 1901 census, together with 11 other servants, a coachman and a groom.
More staff from the village would have come in daily to help prepare early breakfast trays, a sit-down breakfast, luncheon (three courses), afternoon tea with scones, and dinner (five courses).
Modern visitors to the Great Kitchen were always intrigued by the various implements on display especially the sugar cutters and knife sharpener.
The golden age of Cusworth Hall
Local historians generally consider that the late 19th and early 20th centuries were Cusworth Hall’s golden age.
William Battie-Wrightson inherited the hall in 1891 from his great uncle. When William died in 1903, his wifel Lady Isabella, assumed the running of the estate on behalf of her 15-year-old-son. Robert. By 1909, Lady Isabella had handed over the main running of the estate to him, but Robert did not have the inclination to manage the estate, and gradually Cusworth Hall began to sink into decline.
I did several events at the hall where we explored themes like ‘What the children ate in Edwardian times’, and recreated recipes such as Snow Cake and Lunch Cake as well as baking cakes for ‘Servants’ Days’ where it was great fun to dress up as the housekeeper/cook in charge.
WWI baking – and a chance to bake on site
Cusworth Hall played its part during the first world war. Lady Isabella supported many local events to raise funds for local families affected by the war. Over two days at Cusworth Hall, this time baking in a large marquee, I replicated first world war recipes including Trench Cake and Anzac Biscuits for Doncaster ‘s Life on the Home Front events.
Festive traditions at Cusworth Hall
Christmas events were always a highlight, and a time when the hall would be decorated. One of my favourites was Stir Up Sunday where we invited visitors to stir up a traditional Plum Pudding. We didn’t manage to make Hannah Glasse’s famous Yorkshire Pie, but we did do our best with pickling and preserving, using Mrs Beeton’s classic cook book Every Day Cookery.
The next chapter …
Over 10 years at Cusworth Hall, I brought numerous recipes to life from Yorkshire Parkin to Yorkshire Curd Tart and the wonderfully named Yorkshire Moggy Cake. I am very proud to have played a small part in the hall’s story. I wish it well on its next journey with the opening of the RHS-partnered Walled Garden.
Here’s to the next chapter in this remarkable place.
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