In the past I’ve dined in restaurants that have been converted from banks, railway stations and even a former church, but never an old Post Office – that is, until I visited the recently opened Miller and Carter Steakhouse in the centre of York.
Anyone familiar with Yorkshire’s historic capital will recall the grand building situated on Lendal. Nowadays if you want to do any business with the Post Office you will have to walk past a mountain of stationery, magazines and books in WH Smith, where the PO counters are normally right at the back of the shop. You might end up buying the latest bestselling novel when you only came in to buy a stamp!
Rather than leaving it to become yet another empty high street casualty, which even in York is becoming more common, Miller and Carter have refurbished the prominent landmark into a welcoming, vibrant and tasteful dining venue.
Special delivery
I think a sign of a good restaurant is that when the table water arrives, your server offers to fill your glass, which of course they do here. On an early Friday evening the restaurant was practically full, with locals and a smattering of tourists. Cosy booths mixed with traditional tables and chairs against a backdrop of soothing red and brown decor.
For those not in the know, Miller and Carter is part of a chain whose dining establishments are normally situated on the edge of affluent areas, though when experiencing the York branch you could be forgiven for thinking this was a standalone restaurant.
The staff seemed well trained, attentive without being obtrusive, knowledgeable and friendly. Things got off to a good start. My Lancastrian server revealed that she is studying in the city, confessing later on that she prefers York to Preston – a very sensible conclusion!
As the name implies, steak rules supreme here, though fish lovers and vegetarians are well catered for too. The menu is extensive, the portions served not so, with quality reigning over quantity.
A selection of sweet sticky chipotle chicken bites was a good introduction with impressive taste (and service). The calorie content, at 651, might be on the high side for a starter, but then again there are always York’s famous walls to walk around afterwards to burn off any indulgence!
Signed, sealed and delivered
Miller and Carter have been awarded a ’Master of Steak’ accolade from the prestigious Craft Guild of Chefs. This comes with high expectations – which were satisfied in style. Steaks come aged 50 or 30 days. My 9oz rump came full flavoured with a lean, firm texture. Decisions need to be made as to how you’d like your steak cooked and what sauce you would prefer. I chose a thick and creamy three peppercorn sauce. A wedge of lettuce was served on the side with my choice of a robust Long Clawson Stilton and blue cheese sauce and a further side of thick-cut chunky chips.
If the description sounds mouth-watering, then the answer is yes, the food lived up to it. As I said previously, servings might be on the small side, but don’t be put off at all. Miller and Carter are staking a claim here, offering an excellent dining experience.
A glass of refreshing and fruity One Chain Australian Chardonnay complimented my meal. If you have room left for dessert, a comprehensive menu awaits with all the usual suspects such as lemon tart, sticky toffee pudding and tiramisu calling for your attention. The passion fruit cheesecake came with a nice firm base and a sweet topping. Nice to discover too that a biscuit is served with coffee – another situation in which little things make a big difference.
Last post
I enjoyed visiting Miller and Carter in York because it all felt like an event, and one that made me want to go back for more. The food might be on the pricey side but don’t let that deter you. A warm atmosphere, top notch service and quality food awaits anyone who appreciates a good dining experience. It certainly got my stamp of approval.
Access for all
The restaurant is all on the flat with a couple of steps to negotiate at the entrance. Spaces between tables are wide and a wheelchair could be easily accommodated. Naturally a disabled toilet is at your disposal.
Sticky chipotle chicken £8.95; 9oz rump steak £23.35; thick-cut chips £1.00 extra; passion fruit cake £8.75; small glass of One Chain Chardonnay £7.45; Americano coffee £3.50.
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