Studying Proust’s ‘A la Recherche du Temps Perdu’ as part of my degree in languages was an early introduction to the delights of ‘madeleines’. In our ‘explication de textes’ seminars, we discovered how the taste of this cake, which Proust ate as a child, resulted in “un souvenir involuntaire”. In other words, the author experienced a fleeting sensation of the past and present coming together. As conscientious young students, we had much more in-depth literary discussion on this theme, but eventually came to the conclusion that the best thing was dipping (dunking) madeleines in coffee or tea.
What are madeleines like?
Rather like Jaffa cakes, experts have long discussed whether madeleines are a cake or a biscuit. Their sponge texture is quite soft and light but slightly dense, hence the debate. Baked using basic ingredients: sugar, eggs, butter, flour with baking powder, they can be flavoured with vanilla extract or lemon zest. Ground almonds may be substituted for some of the flour but my friend, Odile, says this is “pas comme il faut” so who am to question the French on this? The madeleine tin is an essential piece of equipment since the moulds are in the shape of shells. The moulds give the madeleines their special shape and pattern with lines visible on each madeleine when baked.
How do you bake them?
Madeleines are very easy to bake – in fact you can’t go wrong. There is a multitude of recipes but they have similar instructions. Most suggest using melted butter but others follow a sort of creaming method where you soften the butter and add the rest of the ingredients. Some recipes don’t use milk. I’ve used a French family recipe here.
This recipe makes 24 approximately (2 tins), depending on the size of the tin.
What you need
100g butter melted
100g caster sugar
2 eggs (beaten)
50g milk
Vanilla extract or
Zest of 1 lemon
100g plain flour
1 tsp baking powder
How to bake
Preheat the oven to 220C (200C fan) or gas mark 7. Beat the eggs and add the sugar, vanilla extract (or lemon zest) and some of the milk. Beat with a whisk over a bain-marie (in a bowl over a pan of warm water). Remove from the heat and continue to whisk. Add the rest of the milk and then stir in the flour and baking powder. Brush the madeleine tin with oil or a small amount of melted butter. Place spoonfuls of the mixture into the moulds – just fill half each individual mould. Bake for 10-12 minutes until they are well risen and firm. Leave to cool for five minutes then remove from the tin with a palette knife and put on a cooling rack.
To decorate
Icing sugar
or
White or dark chocolate
Apricot jam
For an easy decoration, sieve icing sugar across the madeleines or dip them in melted chocolate like ‘churros’. For a more elaborate version, brush the madeleines with apricot jam, heated in a pan with 1 tbsp hot water, then trickle melted chocolate over the madeleines and leave until set.
Origins of the madeleine
As with all traditional cakes, there are various versions of their origins, although the consensus is that they came from the Lorraine region of North Eastern France during the 18th century and, more specifically, the communes of Commercy and Liverdun. One story says that a cook in a royal household, called Madeleine first created them. Another tale associates the madeleines with a pilgrim (also called Madeleine) who passed through Lorraine on her return from Santiago de Compostela or was it Madeleine the cook who baked them for travellers on their pilgrimages? These accounts explain the connection between the shape of the madeleines and the shell symbol of St James (read about the famous Pastel de Santiago).
Whatever the story, these little cakes, forever etched in my memory, have their place as the most beguiling of small cakes. I love baking these with my grandchildren for goûter, to keep my fond memories of ‘madeleines’ alive.
You can read more about Grandma Abson’s life, her passion for baking and recipes HERE and head over to Instagram @grandmaabson to see Meryl baking with her grandchildren.
