Whenever I visit York, Clifford’s Tower always seems to draw me, standing there on the mound looking regal and imposing, still appearing to guard the city, as it has done since the 13th century.
Clifford’s Tower
After a fire gutted the interior in 1684, Clifford’s Tower remained for centuries, a roofless ruin – albeit with panoramic views across York – thanks to the wall walk around the top of the tower. Following a £5mn project to conserve and radically transform the interior of the 800-year-old landmark, Clifford’s Tower reopened to the public last year.
The first new feature that you will notice, is that the ticket office is now located at the base of the motte inside a small Italian Piaggio truck. For those of you who have not been to Italy and been stuck behind an old Piaggio on a country road, they are a tuk-tuk style vehicle.
Previously, the tower would have been off limits for the less mobile. Now, if you can’t manage the climb, you can watch an animation on the side of the truck, which gives a view of inside the tower and the transformation it has undergone.
The 55 steps (I know, because I always count them) that lead up to the tower additionally have several rest areas positioned along the side so you can take a breather if you want. This has the added advantage that it encourages visitors to picnic and sit longer, enjoying the views of York.
A thoughtful combination of the old and the new
Once inside the tower you will discover new staircases and hanging walkways that take you up to a new rooftop deck. Previously when reaching the top of the tower I always used to dislike having to scramble around the single file pathway and always seemed to end up bumping into one of my fellow visitors! Now the new timber roof deck has created a lot more space which means you can now stand in a group if you wished. One thing that had not changed is the sweeping 360-degree view of York and beyond.
When I heard that they were going to insert metal walkways inside the tower I was not too sure if this would work aesthetically. Depending on your point of view they either work or they don’t. Personally, I think they do, although my partner thought they looked out of keeping with the tower. We both agreed though, that they do give an entirely new perspective to a hitherto inaccessible first floor – perhaps most intriguingly, King Henry III’s toilet with an ingenious flush mechanism piped through the wall that enters from the side. It then dumped the results down the side of the motte!
In the main space a soundscape takes you back in time. We both enjoyed sitting on the sound benches on the ground floor as we listened to the voices of fictional characters who were brought back to life by local York residents.
The renovation has I believe breathed new life into Clifford’s Tower. It is still a ruin, but they have left it to interpretation. A towering success indeed.
A floral commemoration of a terrible event
In 1992, 200,000 daffodil bulbs were planted on the mound in a project to commemorate the 150 men, women and children of the Jewish faith who died in one of the worst antisemitic massacres of the Middle Ages in 1190. The result was a beautiful display of the six-pointed Narcissus variety ‘February Gold’, representing the Star of David, covering the entire mound.
The stunning display of daffodils on the mound have become a unique feature of York’s early spring – a harbinger of better weather to come, as well as a moving reminder of one of the darkest episodes in the city’s history.
The daffodils on the mound are still out, though you will have to be quick to catch them as they only flower for around two weeks.
The Bishop and The Bison
The Bishop and The Bison is York’s new boutique bed and breakfast experience. The first thing I noticed upon entering the hotel was the homely atmosphere that prevailed. This new, independently run boutique hotel appears to be a 21st century spin on the tried and tested bed and breakfast concept.
All the rooms are individual styled and are tastefully decorated. Run by Jonathan and Anthony, it is Jonathan who you will probably see the most. His enthusiasm and passion for The Bishop and The Bison along with his desire to give guests the best possible stay, are what made my stay so memorable.
The hotel is situated a 20-minute walk outside York at Clifton, in a red brick Victorian townhouse with a small car park at the rear of the property. On what was a sunny spring day, our walk alongside the nearby River Ouse into York was idyllic – the birds sang and a gentle southerly breeze wafted in the air.
Back at The Bishop and The Bison, we selected a gin and tonic in the president’s lounge from the Ginventory – which was most welcome after a very tiring car journey to York.
A hearty, freshly cooked English breakfast will set you up for a busy day ahead sightseeing in York (with added temptations such as homemade jam which was delicious).
Unusual name
As the hotel has such an unusual name, I was curious to know if there was a story to tell.
The ‘bishop’ refers to the long ecclesiastical heritage of the Diocese and Province of York, with its first archbishop Paulinus, having been appointed in 627CE.
The second part of the name is, of course, a tribute to the nomadic grazer that roams the Rockies and Great Plains – the bison. Jonathan and Anthony both worked in the United States, travelling widely. One of their most memorable trips was to Wyoming and South Dakota, where they observed herds of bison chewing amiably at rest or walking in the frosty morning mists of early winter.
Fortunately, The Bishop and The Bison is a lot nearer to home and a local, independently run business that deserves to be a success.
The Bishop and The Bison, 127 Clifton, York YO30 6BL
Telephone: 07415 005150
