A new name has arrived in Leeds – The Banksia. If you have never heard of the name before, neither had I until I visited this stylish dining destination. Apparently, the name derives from a wildflower that originates from Australia and thrives in a mild climate. The restaurant is situated on a crossroads between Calls Lane and Swinegate and is housed on the ground floor of the new Indigo Hotel.
I am always a bit suspicious of restaurants that are based in an hotel: admittedly there is a captive market to serve and the impression I seem to frequently get is that because of their location the restaurant does not have to try that hard to impress. This stance was turned upside down on my recent visit to The Banksia.
Firstly, the restaurant operates as a stand-alone business where, as general manager Simon Grace says, “cultures and flavours collide to create a unique experience”. This soon became apparent when experiencing the culinary experience on offer from head chef Craig Logan, son of celebrated chef Simon Logan.
The Banksia: small plates, big ideas
According to The Banksia team, the concept there is one of a small plate menu with an emphasis on a Mediterranean theme, including many dishes from Turkey and Greece with plentiful fish and meat options. The restaurant also has the ‘hummus experience’ where at your table side the sesame paste, garlic and zest can be adjusted to your taste creating a bespoke dish in this all-day dining restaurant.
The inclusion of a selection of Mediterranean cheeses on the nibbles section of the menu came as a surprise. Normally I’d expect a cheese selection to come at the end of meal but, as this is not just another Mediterranean restaurant, you will discover that they do things differently at The Banksia. The four-cheese selection would be ideal for sharing, ranging from a mild Brie to a sharp Yorkshire Blue, and is served at room temperature.
It was a pleasing start but, unfortunately, the accompanying grapes were still part frozen and would have benefitted from being taken out of the fridge at the same time as the cheese! The selection of Mediterranean breads also lacked imagination and would have benefitted from a crusty baguette and a slice or two of ciabatta to create a more inclusive Mediterranean feel.
The Mediterranean touch
The main menu, besides the seafood and hummus (served with spiced lamb or chicken) option, has a meat selection which focuses mainly on lamb and beef. Vegetarians are catered for with the Banksia salad. My choice of 6oz rump steak served well done was cooked to perfection with the accompanying pink peppercorn sauce being thick and robust in taste. The addition of thyme salt fries provided a contrasting taste to my main course, eliminating the misgivings I had with my starters.
Options on the dessert menu include: Lokma (spiced doughnuts soaked in honey and topped with pistachios) which is another dish served at the table, Tiramisu and Karidopita (warm spiced walnut cake). Having indulged maybe a little too much I decided upon a lighter option – the citrus cheesecake served with rose syrup and topped with apple crumble which was on the right side of sweetness. Coffee came served with a hazelnut Turkish Delight – another eastern Mediterranean touch, albeit a small one, that was different and thoughtful.
Time to grow and flourish in Leeds
It is early days yet for The Banksia, though like its namesake the seeds have now hopefully been planted to ensure the restaurant will flourish and prosper. Service throughout was exemplary, starting with the table water being poured upon first arrival at the table and frequently after, not obtrusively being enquired about my meal by the serving staff and ending with a genuine smile upon departure.
With a copious cocktail and wine list as well as a great cup of coffee, there is enough to satisfy even the most discerning customer at The Banksia. My fellow dining guests were split equally between those who had made a special effort to visit the restaurant and those who went up to their hotel room after their evening meal.
Being mostly on one level (there are a few steps down to a small area of the restaurant). The Banksia is accessible to all. Holding its own as a destination in its own right, this new addition to the already oversubscribed Leeds dining scene is a welcome one that leaves a shining impression – almost as hot and inviting as the Mediterranean sun.
The Banksia, 2 Lower Briggate, Leeds LS1 4AE. Mediterranean Cheeses (£12.00); Mediterranean Breads (£4.00); 6oz Rump Steak (£20.00); Thyme Salt Fries (£5.00); Citrus Cheesecake (£8.00).
