There’s plenty of free fun for the family in the White Rose county this summer. Although Nidderdale might be the less fashionable neighbour of Swaledale and Wensleydale, there are some fabulous things to do in this, the most easterly of the dales, with the added bonus that you can avoid the crowds and spend little more than the cost of your journey. And, with Ripon just a dozen miles from the A1, it’s all easily accessible.
Brimham Rocks
Owned and managed by the National Trust, this 184-hectare site of special scientific interest just eight miles north-west of Harrogate features hundreds of rocks shaped by the water and weather, with names like Druid’s Stone, Lover’s Leap, Baboon’s Face and Smartie Tube.
Formed roughly 320 million years ago, the sandstone grit was once a riverbed. Exposed to glacial winds during the last Ice Age, the rocks were sculpted by nature into hundreds of fanciful shapes. The site is criss-crossed by public footpaths and although there is a charge for the National Trust carpark for non-members (£6 for four hours) you can roam among the stones free of charge.
Find out more about Brimham Rocks.
Ripon Cathedral
This historic cathedral church dates from the early 7th century, with a surviving Saxon crypt that is the oldest in the country. Unlike many cathedrals (including its famous neighbour York Minster) Ripon is free to enter (although they do ask for a much-needed donation – it costs £2,000 per day to keep the cathedral running).
The war poet Wilfred Owen spent his final birthday sitting quietly among the church’s ancient stones just days before being posted back to the Western Front. And this summer the cathedral plays host to another artist inspired by such sacred spaces in a free exhibition of Suzanne McIvor’s work including those inspired by York Minster, Ripon Cathedral, Byland, the Lindisfarne Gospels, plus the Abbeys of Jervaulx, Rievaulx and Fountains.
Visit the Ripon Cathedral website for more information.
The Ripon Wakeman
If you’re still in this tiny, charming city at dusk, don’t miss out on the unique ceremony of setting the watch, which historically takes place at 9pm in the market square.
When Alfred the Great granted this small city its charter, the kingdom was threatened by Viking raids. So the king gave the inhabitants a ram’s horn to sound the alarm if attacked. The night watchman, known as a ‘wakeman’, would patrol from dusk until dawn ready to sound the horn at the first sign of approaching trouble. And at the start of each ‘watch’ the horn would be blown to reassure the city’s inhabitants that the watchman was alert.
For the last two years, covid restrictions meant that the ceremony took place online, but the ritual is now back live at 9pm each night in the market square, just as it has been for over 1,100 years.
Deer Park, Studley Royal
Although there’s an admission charge for the formal gardens (adjacent to the magnificent ruins of Cistercian Fountains Abbey) for non-members of the National Trust or English Heritage, there’s plenty of the 300-acre deer park left to explore for free. Park in the village of Studley Roger and walk up the magnificent carriage drive towards the fine Gothic Revival Church of St Mary. Turn left and, in about 500 yards, you’re treated to a magnificent view of the famous Studley lake, just one of the amazing water features carved out of the wooded valley by John Aislabie in 1718.
Heading back up the hill it’s worth taking a look at St Mary’s church, built to commemorate the death of Frederick Vyner, son-in-law of the first Earl Grey who was kidnapped by bandits in Greece. Look back for spectacular views of Ripon Cathedral at the end of the sweeping carriage drive.
Find out more about Fountains Abbey and Studley Royal Water Garden and Deer Park.
Find out more about St Mary’s Church.
Hackfall
Owned and managed jointly by the Hackfall Trust and the Woodland Trust and set in a steep gorge not far from Ripon, this designated site of special scientific interest within the Nidderdale area of outstanding natural beauty is a hidden gem.
Bought in 1731 by John Aislabie, the area was transformed by the creation of glades, waterfalls and fountains and the addition of grottoes, caves and rustic temples. The wood was almost entirely felled in the 1930s but in 1989 the land was bought by the Woodland Trust, who, along with the Hackfall Trust, have restored much of the site to its former glory. Car parking is free, as is access to the site itself, but the terrain makes it largely unsuitable for disabled visitors.
Visit the Hackfall website for more information.
Leeds Pals memorial
Now standing alone and proud on a hillside, the Leeds Pals memorial marks the site of what was a busy First World War training camp. ‘Pals’ battalions were the inspiration of Minister of War Lord Kitchener, who thought men who knew each other would fight better together. After nine months’ basic training the Leeds Pals saw action first in Egypt, defending the Suez Canal, before effectively being wiped out in the First Battle of the Somme in 1916.
This monument to the men who lost their lives, alongside their friends, for king and country was erected in 1935 and is among the loneliest, and most poignant, Great War memorials in the country.
Find out more about the Leeds Pals memorial.
Toft Gate lime kiln
The tranquil dales, and especially a designated area of outstanding natural beauty like Nidderdale, seem a million miles from the smoke of industry of the West Riding. But sites like Toft Gate remind the visitor that this landscape was once a hive of manufacturing industry, a vital cog in the wheel of Britain’s agricultural revolution.
Located at Greenhow Hill, two miles from Pateley Bridge, Toft Gate kiln was used to make the quicklime spread on fields by local farmers. The site doubles as a place of both historical and astronomical interest, being one of four dark sky discovery sites in Nidderdale.
Find out more about the Toft Gate lime kiln.
Druid’s Temple, Masham
Despite the name this stone circle has nothing to do with the Druids. It has everything to do with unemployment, and the largesse of William Danby of Swinton Park, who paid workers a shilling a day to construct this Stonehenge-inspired folly. Although just a little over 200 years old, the stones (some of which stand 10ft tall) still have an air of mystery in their forest setting, which makes a lovely spot for a picnic and is just a short walk from nearby Leighton Reservoir.
Find out more about the Druid’s Temple.
Yorke’s Folly
Otherwise known as ‘Two Stoops’, this pair of stone pillars is another creative employment scheme by a wealthy Yorkshire landowner. Named after its benefactor, John Yorke, the folly was created in the late 18th century by unemployed labourers who were paid the sum of 4d per day plus a loaf of bread. There was originally a third column, but it collapsed in a storm in 1893. Standing high above Bewerley, the site provides a wonderful vista over Pateley Bridge and beyond and is worth visiting for the views alone.
Find out more about Yorke’s Folly.
Watch the setting sun on Dallowgill
Grab some fish ’n chips (or a burger, if you prefer – this is a takeaway with a varied menu) from Kirkby Fisheries in Kirkby Malzeard and then take a short drive up to Dallowgill moor, where you can spread out the picnic blanket and watch the sun set to the accompaniment of sheep, skylarks and curlews and even, if you’re lucky, a distant cuckoo. The views east towards the Hambledon hills are breathtaking; west across the moor towards the setting sun is just magical. A lovely way to end the day.
Find out more about Dallowgill.
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