I’ve been enjoying Yorkshire’s many waterfalls for almost 50 years and there are always new ones to discover. They are special places, and while some, like the spectaculars at Aysgarth and Ingleton, are well known, others are hidden deep inside valleys or gills and have to be sought out. The Dales have the most, and the most impressive, in the county, but there are many beautiful ones all across the Ridings, on the Moors, at the coast and in the Pennine valleys. Here, I take you on a journey of appreciation to some of my favourites.
Waterfalls of the Dales
As the beautiful series of books by Mary Welsh showed, waterfalls are everywhere in the Dales. From Ingleton and Dentdale in the far north west, to the glories of Wharfedale in the south east of the region, the thrills of fast-falling water are never far away.
The renowned 19th century artist JMW Turner sketched and painted many of them, including England’s highest single unbroken fall at Hardraw near Hawes and the awesome lower falls at Aysgarth.
Swimming in the plunge pools of waterfalls has become very popular in recent years, perhaps helped by climate change. I’ve watched hardy souls taking to the waters at Richmond, Keld and at delightful Janet’s Foss. I think, at 66, my wild swimming days are over, although I have fond memories of dips at Wain Wath Force, Keld, and Whitfield Force near Askrigg, in my younger years.
A particular pleasure can be had by working one’s way upstream to enjoy a series of secluded falls in side valleys, such as those at Buckden Gill or Great Blake Beck near Dent. Care should always be taken; rocks can be very slippery, and one should always stay on recognised paths and keep well within one’s physical abilities if rock scrambling, such as at Gordale.
Walkers and swimmers should also ensure that they are not trespassing on private land, and do not leave any litter after their visits.
Here are a few of my Dales’ favourites: Thornton Force, the best of the many falls on the famed Ingleton Waterfalls Trail; Cray Falls, a fell-side beauty at the top of Wharfedale and close to a smashing pub; Cotter Force near Hawes, small but easily reached from the road and a picture-perfect spot.
Falls of the North York Moors and Coast
The geology of the Moors and along our coast makes waterfalls less frequent here than in the Dales. That said, there are some real gems, notably around Goathland and inland from Whitby.
A real waterfall feast can be enjoyed around the popular village of Goathland: Mallyan Spout has a touch of Amazonia about it and is most impressive in spate. Nelly Ayre Foss is beautifully named and worth seeking out, whilst Thomason Foss above the sublime hamlet of Beck Hole is a thrilling spot.
Close to Whitby there are smashing little falls at Golden Grove, and the impressive Falling Foss, at 40 feet (just over 12 metres) the most impressive in the area, and with a fine seasonal cafe.
The loveliest of the falls that tumble onto our beaches is at Hayburn Wyke, mid-way between Scarborough and Robin Hood’s Bay. I was last there on a gorgeous autumn day, but it’s always magical and well worth the walk down from the pub on the renowned Cinder Track.
To my knowledge the East Riding has only one natural waterfall, hidden in the cliffs at Flamborough North Landing. This takes some finding and can only be safely visited at low tide. It’s in the middle gap in the cliffs of the photo, which is known as Holmes Gut.
Waterfalls of the Yorkshire Pennines
Although less numerous and less spectacular than those in the Dales, there are some delightful falls in our Pennine areas. These have the added bonus of being within easy reach of large centres of population, perfect for an afternoon walk, summer picnic, or bracing dip. There are good ones at Wessenden Head and at Meltham, with the beautifully named Folly Dolly Falls.
The two most impressive are Goit Stock above Bingley and the fabulous twin Lumb Falls north of the lively town of Hebden Bridge.
One of nature’s greatest gifts
All the falls mentioned are reachable by public footpaths. Google searches, and especially OS mapping, are recommended for finding route details. There is an outstanding guidebook to all the nation’s many falls, Waterfalls of England by Griff L Fellows. This features no fewer than 30 in the Dales alone. Falling water has always attracted artists, poets and writers.
Readers may have noticed that our waterfalls go by numerous descriptors: foss, force, spout, and falls. Fittingly they can be found in our numerous dales, gills, becks and cloughs. They are all a reflection of our rich linguistic heritage – many names for one of nature’s greatest gifts. As Mike Harding puts it in a foreword to Waterfalls of England, “…say nothing & listen to what it has to say to you”.
