If you have been to France recently you might have noticed that many local bistros in small towns and villages are closing at a fast pace, as younger generations seems to prefer the fast food outlets that have proliferated across the country over recent years. France is now the second most lucrative market for McDonalds after America. Over on this side of the Channel and closer to home, a new French style bistro, Bavette, has recently opened in Horsforth.
The bistro is owned and run by two experienced chefs who between them have a wealth of experience of working in some of London’s top dining establishments. Sandy, from Leeds, and Clément, from France, met whilst working in one of the capital’s wine bars and bistros. Both shared a passion for great food and wine coupled with a good dining experience, the result being the arrival of this exciting, welcoming and enjoyable bistro in Horsforth.
We dined on an untypical spring evening: the wind and rain outside felt more like autumn. Thankfully, as we stepped into Bavette, the warm ambience of the bistro felt like we had stepped into a more convivial atmosphere. Attention to detail is one of the attributes you will discover immediately. The offer of hanging up our coats was a nice touch, as was the water that was brought to the table soon after we sat down.
Bavette’s emphasis is on seasonal classic cooking
The menu makes the most of fresh seasonal produce with dishes including meat, fish and dairy – or gluten-free options. The professional and friendly staff guided my partner and me through the menu, which is small enough to make it easy to come to a decision. The wine list is a mix of French and other European wines, and also features wine from Clément’s family vineyard in the Loire.
I must have eaten French baguettes from Calais to Cannes over the years and have seen the mass produced soft and floppy versions becoming the norm in the French hypermarkets. Bavette offer, as a starter, a baguette with house butter (£4.00) that tasted like it had just been baked at the boulangerie. Normally I like my baguette with a dollop of strawberry jam and I am sure that if I had asked our server for some, she would have duly obliged: nothing seemed to be too much trouble. My partner decided on pork rillettes served with cucumber and rhubarb pickle with slices of sourdough toast (£11.00) which were tender, succulent and a meal in itself, never mind as a starter.
The bavette à l’échalote served with frites, a very punchy béarnaise sauce and baby gem salad (£24.00) was equally as good if not better than the last version of the dish I tried when in Nice – and cooked to my preference, bien cuit (well done).
Specialist cheeses and unobtrusive service
As a big fan of French cheese, how could I resist the selection of Langres, Beaufort and Fourme d’Ambert (£4.00 each/£10 for three) served with chutney? Full marks for not going down the usual route of offering Camembert and Brie, which is far too predictable in many restaurants. Supplied by George & Joseph, Leeds’ only specialist cheesemonger, the cheese was served at room temperature so that the flavour could flow freely. The warm chocolate sabayon tart served with fromage blanc sorbet (£10.00) came with a light crispy pastry that was so good that my partner would not share it with me!
The service at Bavette was excellent and not intrusive. The ambience and restaurant décor hit the right balance for meeting up with friends or enjoying a romantic meal. Background music, French, naturally, was played at the right level so that you could have a proper conversation. By the time we left the bistro they were having to turn diners away as the restaurant was full: an advance reservation might be a good idea should you decide to visit (online booking is available via the website).
As we said au revoir to our hosts, we knew that it would not be too long before we return to this charming and hospitable gastronomic delight that awaits in Horsforth.
