When pioneering scientist, society wit and long-term resident of what was then The Queens Hotel, Lady Amber Fitzwilliam, ran her Thursday Club in the early 20th century, the hospitality her guests received was nothing short of lavish. That hotel is now Amber’s restaurant.
William D’Arcy would draw up an extensive menu of wines, cocktails and champagne and the very best game and fish from the Yorkshire moors and coast, all prepared to Lady Amber’s exacting standards.
The excellent food and drink served as fuel for the Thursday Club diners as they debated well into the night.
Following a £500,000 refit, the new Amber’s restaurant has arrived. It emulates Lady Amber’s love of modernity and her peerless skill and generosity as a hostess, offering a warm welcome to all. Diners can enjoy a Yorkshire take on British contemporary cuisine in a stylish setting.
Bringing a historic dining experience up to date
The sympathetic renovation impresses. Subtle greens mix with a soothing blend of oranges. Inviting settees combine with palms and fine carpets to give the impression that you might be entering a high-end London restaurant.
The friendliness with which we were welcomed continued throughout the evening. Delivering good service without being too obtrusive was a quality that all our servers possessed.
The menu is extensive so there is something to please all palates, with tempting starters that show imagination, flair and inspiration. Chilli and citrus salmon, slow braised pig’s cheek, pan seared scallops and a selection of chargrilled steaks are just some of the fine offerings you will discover here.
Being a cheese lover I could not resist the Harrogate blue twice-baked soufflé, which came with pear and endive salad, celery salt, roasted walnuts and chive dressing. If all that sounds extravagant, it certainly was. The light and airy egg flavour was enhanced by the subtle taste of the cheese.
My partner’s home-corned beef brisket was soft and tender with a balanced taste that was salty, spiced, sour yet meaty too. Both fine introductions to the evening.
Mains include roasted Gressingham duck breast, slow cooked rolled Easingwold belly pork and roasted Wharfedale lamb rump.
Simple but delicious seafood
I decided on something a little simpler – Theakston’s battered haddock served with triple-cooked chips, mushy peas, curry sauce, caper mayonnaise and charred lemon. The batter was warm and crisp, the haddock succulent, with the absorbed salt and vinegar enhancing its flavour – though I’m still not convinced that curry sauce goes with fish and chips!
My partner’s pan fried stone bass was presented well with Jersey royals, charred baby leek, little gem, creamed peas and purple carrot. The white muscle flakes gave way to a pleasant taste without really being too distinctive. All the flavours complemented one another, was the verdict on this traditional main.
If you have room enough for desserts after all this indulgence then Amber’s can satisfy any sweet request. My jam roly poly came with waistline-expanding double cream custard. Admittedly, the blend of sweet and stodge might not be to everyone’s taste. My partner’s rhubarb and custard was tart and sweet, presented in an unusual way. The custard, more like a cream brûlée, was served in a bowl with the Wakefield rhubarb standing alone, looking almost desolate.
Naturally there is an extensive wine menu with a carefully curated selection of vintages.
Alongside its main room, the restaurant has a private dining and entertaining area, The Imagination, with capacity for up to 28 guests in an opulent and stylish setting.
Lady Amber would, I’m sure, be pleased that the new Amber’s is keeping up tradition and offering elegant dining in a sophisticated setting.
On the menu at Amber’s:
Chilli and citrus salmon, £11.50; slow braised pig’s cheek, £9.00; pan seared scallops, £13.00; Harrogate blue twice-baked soufflé, £10.50; home-corned beef brisket, £9.75; roasted Gressingham duck breast, £27.00; slow cooked rolled Easingwold belly pork, £23.00; roasted Wharfedale lamb rump, £26.00; Theakston’s battered haddock with chips and mushy peas, £18.50; pan fried stone bass with Jersey royals, £26.00; jam roly poly, £8.00; rhubarb and custard, £9.00.
