The Grand in York once numbered as one of the few five-star hotels in the county and is still the only one in the city. The Grade II listed building is steeped in history; it was first constructed in 1906 as the headquarters of the North Eastern Railway Company, it served this purpose for more than 80 years before being redeveloped as a luxury hotel after a £30mn investment, opening for business in 2010.
A few years ago The Grand opened a new restaurant called The Rise. The 130-cover restaurant is light and airy, and from some of the tables you get a superb view of York’s city walls. When visiting just after Christmas the weather persisted in its usual midwinter drudge of heavy rain and gusty winds. As we sat all snug and warm it somehow all felt very comforting as we watched those brave souls battling against the strong winds as they strode out along the walls.
The origins of ‘afternoon tea’
The Rise serves afternoon tea all year round from 12.30 to 16.00, our visit coincided with the Festive Afternoon Tea menu (£49.95 per person, £44.50 without cocktail) which is served until the end of December.
It was Anna Maria Russell, the Seventh Duchess of Bedford who popularised the afternoon tea. The duchess sent out invitations to her friends asking them to join her for a drink of tea and walk in the fields. The idea was soon picked up by other aristocratic hostesses with the practice moving into the drawing room.
The selection of teas at The Rise includes favourites such as The Grand Blend, English Breakfast and Darjeeling, though some that you might not be so well acquainted with. I decided on the strawberry and mango tea, surprisingly the fruity taste of juicy strawberries and delicious mangos was a perfect blend of sweet and sour notes. Two cups would probably be enough for anyone but like all of the other teas on the menu, you are welcome to drink as many as you please.
A treat to banish the winter blues
As jazz-inspired versions of Christmas carols played in the background, which pardon the pun, might not be everyone’s cup of tea, the atmosphere was warm and welcoming.
The selection of savoury sandwiches came with festive delights including a moreish honey roasted turkey breast offering, a beetroot cured salmon open as well as a brioche open sandwich with pickled beets, boiled quail egg and miso emulsion.
Served warm, the traditional freshly baked scone was accompanied with a cinnamon infused version. Light and airy, this guilty pleasure is served alongside Cornish clotted cream and a very sweet strawberry jam.
The patisserie selection included one of the finest pistachio financiers I have tasted. The pastry casing was so light that you might have been fooled into thinking that you had eaten a delicacy from your favourite patisserie when on holiday in France.
Other temptations include a gooey and sticky apple strudel and a messy but moreish morello cherry bavarois.
As a welcome break from a hectic day or a treat to banish any January blues, afternoon tea at The Grand serves up an experience that excels in service and quality.
